HEY THERE, HI THERE, HO THERE! OMG it’s Bud Wise! Back by popular demand, here’s a couple cosmopolitan questions I have gotten lately that I thought may be cool to answer, thus perhaps helping out many of you with similar concerns. Let’s rock and roll…
QUESTION #1: “Spike” Question
Hey Rev I have both of your TLO books and I love them, my plants are happier than I have ever seen and quality and yields are way up so thanks for what you do brother. About your spiking method you use in the books, it’s really hard for me to get a bunch of different dry nutrients like SRP, or even kelp meal. We are using high amounts of worm castings with excellent results in larger containers. My question is, can you give me some super simple guidance here for spikes with very few easy to get ingredients?
Thanks so much,
High Dex and thank you so much for the kudos and support amigo. Check out the photos of the chicken poop. This is a dry (dehydrated) chicken guano that runs 3-2-3 for NPK values with some additional nutrient elements like 2% calcium, and others. The structure of this dried guano is perfect for spiking as it allows some air between all the granules. I now use this guano for my spikes, and mine are just this chicken guano and some kelp meal. Also, keep in mind here, that you don’t need to buy any kelp meal if you have a coastline nearby you can easily just collect kelp, dry it and crunch it up, bingo… you have kelp meal. It’s a worthy addition and worth some effort to include, but you can do without just fine.Chicken guano consistency
If you are forced to use some kind of guano like bat or bird, that is in powdered form, for spiking with, you must have some kind of organic matter also included. Like alfalfa, or kelp meal are two great choices; and, you want to blend these about 50/50 with the guano before using for spikes. If you can’t source the guano locally, I will provide a link just below to Amazon where you can get a 25-pound bag sent to you for about $30.00 total, and that’s a lot of spikes! I also use it in place of my all purpose when building my supernatural TLO soil mix, as well as using it for top dressing here and there when needed.
HERE’S A LINK FOR THAT GUANO AT AMAZON: http://a.co/7CuHG7p
QUESTION #2: Top Dressing to Adjust pH Quickly QuestionCongo sativa genetics getting used to TLO soil
Hello Revinator! I know you can help me with a problem I have. I’m using your TLO recycled soil recipe and 95% of what I have grown loves it. Recently I have gotten some African sativa that is a land race. It doesn’t have any big problems but I can see a slight potassium thing. Is this a pH issue with the soil mix when growing certain sativas? I know you rock the indies and sativas in your gardens so I need to know how you handle this if it happens (without using bottled liquids or teas) so it doesn’t get to be a real issue. Thank you in advance.
Hey Carl, great timing with this question as I happen to have some serious landrace genetics that are heavy sativa dominant in the photo (Congo) that are likely experiencing exactly what you are talking about. You can see in the photo how they are experiencing some slight K (potassium) issues. No worries, their growth rates are jamming and all is actually quite fine and dandy. Landrace genetics will always have their own preferences as far as pH of their soil and levels of nutrients available. No need to fear, the good news is that they will adapt quickly, much like you would adapt to the desert by getting a suntan. The plants will adjust their own stuff using the microbeasties in the soil to generate microclimates in the rhizosphere (the zone immediately surrounding the roots in the soil) that will accommodate their needs; pH-wise. The plants are actually like “puppet masters” manipulating the microbial life for maximum symbiosis.Crab meal
Let me give you some quick pointers regarding how to deal with these type issues. First of all, you normally don’t need to do anything but have some patience and keep the consistent water source coming without adding liquid nutrients, or any food really. They will normally adjust themselves just fine within a couple of weeks. However, if they do start to suffer from a pH thing, and keep in mind it can be too much available food also with landrace sativas especially, you can fix things pretty fast with a top dressing. Also, as a rule of thumb when growing any exotic sativas I normally weaken my own soil mix by cutting it by about 1/3rd with bagged soil.
Sativas, especially ones from a jungle environment like Vietnamese, Panamanian, South American, and Central African, can have a preference for lower pH ranges than other landrace strains that are from hot desert type climates, like Afghanis, Kush, and most Hashplants really that are pureblood indica. These Hashplant types usually prefer a higher than normal pH range.Iron and sulfur
The iron and sulfur blend in the photo above is awesome for sativas especially and using just a little bit of this on top of the soil can really make them super happy fast. I always use a little crab meal with this when I do use it, and in a 2 or 3-gallon container I would use about 2 teaspoons of Iron & Sulfur along with about a tablespoon of crab meal. Careful not to overuse this one!Fishbone meal
On the other end of the spectrum if growing something like a Deep Chunk, or any kind of landrace Hashplant, you may need to up the soil pH a tad. This can be done using bone meal (I like fishbone meal) and in a 2 or 3-gallon container I would use about 2 teaspoons of bone meal on top. Remember to always moisten any top dressing right after applying it, with a hand sprayer. You can see the results of your efforts within a week or 10 days. Stay cool, in TLO the plants can usually adjust themselves to the soil no worries, you just gotta have some patience baybee, along with some good water, and you are golden. Don’t worry, be happy. Cheers.