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Letters to Rev – Artisan and Connoisseur

Letters to Rev – Artisan and Connoisseur

Howdy one and all; I’m The Rev and I been around the cannabis growing and smoking genre for just shy of a half century now—yikes—and so I have seen and done a lot of things in those years. In my “Letters” to Rev series, I like to tackle some of the more interesting questions I get emailed and texted, and then answer them. I have heard from many of you how much you dig this series, thanks for sharing with me, my very green amigos ????

Today we will look at a couple artisan grower’s questions regarding later flowering, and a connoisseur’s question about flower vaporizers that I am more than happy to answer. I loves my vaporizer, and I have been using the same kind for over 5 years. Let’s check it out…

Calcium Buildup

FROM: Charles G., USA

Photo from Charles – Early Effects of Calcium Buildup

“Hey Rev. I have been using TLO style now for about 8 years and recycling my soil as well, and it’s been all really good. In the last several months however, I have been getting this issue starting on about day 40 of flowering (see the photo). I use reverse osmosis water and bring it up to about 100 PPM by adding some CaMg+ by General Organics. This issue isn’t really too bad, and my harvests are awesome, I just feel I may be losing some yield lately because of this issue. Can ya help? Thanks Rev.


High Charles. I totally recognize the way that plant in the photo looks. The simple answer is that your running your water PPM too high, and you should actually be down around something more like 50 or 60 PPM in my opinion; if you are using TLO style and soil mix.

Over time, like over the course of months, having your PPM too high will build up excess salts, like the way your coffee maker or shower head will get that “calcium scale” build up. All you need to do is back off your PPM and cut some good bagged soil into your TLO soil, like a 20% cut should be fine; you only need cut it once, everything will go back to primo once your PPM is corrected.

When backing off PPM levels, do it slowly; or you will piss off your plants. Running lower PPM water suddenly will tend to “suck” nutrients right back out of the plant from the roots, osmotically. For this run, I would just let the plants in flowering finish with what they are used to, in order to avoid any additional problems.

But for any plants in vegetative stage, just lower the water PPM by 10-15 PPM per watering until you reach your target PPM level. Also, I have found it much better to add PPM to your water by adding in some well water or dechlorinated tap/municipal water, than using liquid Cal-Mag products. Also, beware of Ca-Mg liquid products as many contain synthetic additives.

Fading-In All Naturally Grown Containers

FROM: Aron Z., Arizona, USA

The Perfect Fade According to REvski

“Rev, long-time fan and TLO grower here. I know you have to be the man with the plan here, that can help us out with our finish before harvest. They are all good, it’s just that sometimes we are right on the mark and the plants fade perfectly (about one out of three harvests). Other times they fade a bit too much, or not enough.

The smoke is always fabulous and smooth, but definitely best faded perfectly as much stronger smells and flavors are present. We run about 75 PPM water using dechlorinated groundwater with occasional teas (about 150 PPM) once a month. Thank you in advance.”

Hey-hey Aron. I’m with you all the way mi amigo, I always try and pull off the perfect fade for those exact reasons. I’ll assume you are indoors, but even if you are outdoors in the ground much of this answer will still apply to you.

One huge variable here will be the ‘METABOLISM’ of your plants during any given flowering cycle. Ambient temperatures, relative humidity, and air movement, all play a part here regarding just how fast your plants will burn through their available food. Pay close attention to these factors. A 10-degree difference in temps over the course of a week even, makes hella difference.

See Also
TLO Rule Bending

I would consider dropping the teas—you really don’t need them using my TLO soil recipe—and then you can effectively use PPM control to initiate the fade; which is exactly what I do. As long as you are running a just-add-water garden, the fade is actually super simple. The plants get used to their water source and adapt to it over a little time. If you run a consistent PPM value, you can lower that value just prior to harvest and get the killer fade every time.

If my ambient temperatures are warmer, like in the summer months, I will lower my garden water’s PPM value by about 20 PPM, about 8 to 10 days before harvest. During the cooler months I will do the same thing, except I will do it about 15 to 18 days before harvest. Warmer temps equal higher plant metabolism, which in turn equals less days needed running lowered PPM values to properly fade your plants. I run garden water about 55-60 PPM, I simply change that to 35-40 PPM to initiate the fade—works like a charm.

Need a Good Vape

FROM: Karman K., Washington, USA

Rev’s PAX III Portable Vaporizer

“Yo Rev! Hey man, I was just wondering about a good choice for a flower vaporizer? I know you are a big vaping fan and I am just overwhelmed by the choices. I would love to hear your recommendation.”

Greetings Karman, for the last 5 or 6 years now I have been hooked on the PAX brand vaporizer. It’s a portable rechargeable vaporizer, and it’s my primary go-to when it comes to fully enjoying my cannabis flowers. For a home-base unit, I would look at Volcano brand; however, I use my PAX as my home-base and mobile vaporizer. PAX holds about a doobie’s worth of bud per load, and can do about 6 or 7 of those before it needs recharging. Recharging takes about 1.5 to 2 hours. I got my PAX III for $220.00 and it’s worth every penny in my opinion. Cheers.

  • REvski ????