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Letters to Rev: Micro-Dosing & Clones Moving Outside

Letters to Rev: Micro-Dosing & Clones Moving Outside

Bad ass buds are the results

Howdy SKUNKers! All-natural growing is not a static thing for me, and as my dynamic evolves I try and keep all interested peeps posted. These days I am basically “Bohemian” style TLO indoors. I amend my soil mix both lighter and simpler these days, and for additional nutrition beyond the soil mix I pretty much exclusively use dried chicken guano, worm castings, aquarium water, and worm juice leachate from my home worm farm, period.

In today’s letters to Rev I’ll dial in my micro-dosing dynamic for those of you that are interested. This is my newly-found druid move that plays hardcore into the strengths of Mother Nature, and while all my micro-dosing these days is done with worm juice leachate from my worm farm, I used to use several concentrated blends and I’ll share a couple of those with you. Also clearing up a cannabis fan regarding placement of indoor clones outdoors; relative to photoperiods—let’s rock and roll…

Micro-Dosing Question

“Greetings Rev, I was reading an article you wrote lately about micro-dosing and it instantly hit me how perfect of a system that is for feeding your plants. I just have a couple of questions.

1: How do I know how many cubes per gallon of water to use at first?

2: You mentioned doing this with organic fertilizer alternately, just liquids?

Thank you so much,

Dudley Doobright.”

Silicone mini ice cube trays

Howdy Dudley my good man; you have the heart of a Druid. That’s how you know you are on the right track—when stuff suddenly makes perfect sense to you. Okay, let’s take your questions in order; my article on micro-dosing had to do with freezing worm leachate (worm juice) from a home stacked worm farm into silicone mini-ice cube trays (see photo) and then using them all the time, every time you water in very small amounts/ratios.

  1. Overdosing is what you are primarily trying to avoid here amigo. Going with too many mini-cubes per watering can have great looking effects in the short term, but end up screwing you hard down the road a bit when it counts; via buildup in the rootzones (rhizosphere). So, I would recommend starting out with 1 or 2 mini-cubes per gallon of water, no matter if you have frozen leachate or concentrated tea, etc.
  2. Yes, liquid and soluble, and my favorite in the past was Alaska brand liquid fish fertilizer and soluble kelp meal bubbled like a tea for 24 hours then frozen into the silicone trays. I used this for my vegging plants with great success. Lately I just use worm leachate, period, no need for anything else. Below I will give you two examples of the kind of solutions I have frozen—non-leachate—this way and used with great success.
The best liquid fish fertilizer by Alaska Brand

For vegging plants; bubbling this mixture for 24 hours like a tea, and these formulas make ½ gallon of concentrate for freezing into mini-cubes. I highly recommend getting a 100-watt small aquarium heater and set the temperature to 74-76 degrees for brewing this concentrate. So, per half gallon of water add:

  • 1 tablespoon of liquid fish fertilizer (or dry fish – see below)
  • 2 teaspoons of soluble kelp extract
  • 1 teaspoon of DE (diatomaceous earth)
  • ¼ teaspoon of molasses
  • ¼ teaspoon Epsom Salts
  • 1 tablespoon of powdered dolomite lime
Dried fish

Alternately you could use 2 tablespoons of dried and powdered fish instead of the liquid fish fertilizer. Before pouring this solution into the silicone trays, stir up the tea really well because you want a lot of particles present—they are all good here. Now… For flowering plants, you use the same logistics, ½ gallon of water bubbled for 24 hours first…

  • 1 tablespoon of bone meal
  • 2 teaspoons of soluble kelp extract
  • 1 teaspoon of DE (diatomaceous earth)
  • 1 tablespoon powdered dolomite lime
  • ¼ teaspoon molasses
  • ¼ teaspoon Epsom Salts
My favorite soluble Kelp Extract

Many combos are possible but there’s two of mine that have worked bomber for me in the past. Like I said I just use frozen worm leachate like this always now, veg or flowering, and I just back down during the last half of flowering and don’t use any the last 10 days before harvest. Cheers man, I hope that helps ya.

Indoor Clones Going Outdoors Question

“How much difference can there be in the “daylight” hours between indoors and outdoors? What do I want my clones running for a photoperiod indoors before putting them outdoors so they don’t start flowering? I saw how you had said in an issue of Skunk Mag you get the real daylight hours by taking sunup to sunset hours and adding 2, or 3 hours right? Okay, but then what do I do with that info? Sorry I’m just a tad confused, thanks in advance.

See Also

Big Dave”

Just add a clone to your garden

Greetings Dave… Always make sure to have a less “daylight” indoors on your clones, than there is outside, by about 2 hours; using my calculator for true daylight hours, which is sunup to sundown plus 3 hours. Let’s say sunrise is 5 am and sundown is 8 pm—that’s 15 hours, then add 3 hours and we have a true outdoor photoperiod of 18 hours. So, you would want your clones running 16/8 photoperiod before placing them outdoors.

Super old clones tend to want to flower badly and if they have been grown over many cloning generations using 24 hours ON photoperiod, it’s often tricky to get them not to start flowering too soon, then they revert back to vegetative stage, then go back into flowering, even when trying to use my formula above. This process saps a lot of energy from the plant and causes high stress levels too. Placing super old clones out later in the season is really best for these type clones, like July 5th even.

Rev’s Tip: When pouring liquids into the silicone trays for freezing using a small paint brush will really help you get it all distributed evenly. Also, if you make too much and have any left after filling your trays you can just freeze it and thaw out later to fill more trays. Cheers humans, catch ya next week here at SKUNK Digitalwink.



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