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Organic Cannabis vs. Synthetics

Organic Cannabis vs. Synthetics

Top Shelf Thai Hybrid Organic Cannabis

Holy hell man! I just can’t believe the number of you out there that still are basically clueless when it comes to truly high-quality cannabis. I’m not talking about how potent it is, but I am talking about everything else, all other aspects of the cannabis experience. Specifically, the smoking experience. Organic cannabis is always, without exception night & day better smoking quality than synthetically grown cannabis.

Don’t get mad at me if you are a synthetic grower, I used to be you, and I’m only here today to try and help you, so give me a shot. Lemme accelerate your skill level, yes?

Switching to Organic Cannabis Growing – Change is Hard

Believe me when I say that I know exactly why many of you have stuck with the synthetic growing methods, change is hard. When I switched over to organic growing 16 years ago it was kind of a nightmare for me and my plants, for at least 6 months. I can make your transition so much smoother than you think. I, and many others I know, won’t even smoke cannabis that was synthetically grown, because it’s literally repulsive when compared to good organic cannabis, to smoke; fact.

My Suggested Dynamic Works Awesome at Any Stage of Growth
My Suggested Dynamic Works Awesome at Any Stage of Growth

When you switch over to organic cannabis growing, indoors or out, you can do it to a couple or a few plants at a time, so you won’t potentially bone an entire crop. Using bottled liquid organic nutrients is your first step, with your eventual goal being ALL-NATURAL cannabis growing, using no bottles.

Using organic liquid nutrients is like using training wheels when learning to ride a bike. Once you have experienced organic cannabis smoke, you will be blown away how much more elegant, and smoothly it smokes. Once you have experienced all-naturally grown cannabis smoke, you’ll never look back.

Rev’s Tip: Synthetics and Soil Sucks Big

If you are using synthetic nutrients, in containers filled with soil, you are really ending up with horrible quality cannabis. Using straight-up synthetics, in hydroponics or soilless growing mediums, your final results can be much better, but still, any weeds grown synthetically suck in my opinion—don’t get pissed at me, heh heh, just read on; remember, I used to be you. I can help you learn stuff fast baybee.

Here’s How We Do Organic Cannabis for Beginners

If you are already growing in containers, using synthetic nutrients, then it’s super easy just to grow a couple or a few plants organically, keeping the status quo for the rest of your plants how you would normally grow them. You should start out using liquid and dry organic nutrients, along with some good soil for your first run. Using bottles is like training wheels, and once you try some of your organic cannabis, you’ll see exactly what I mean about night and day quality differences.

I Personally Prefer Using Grow Tents Indoors for Cannabis
I Personally Prefer Using Grow Tents Indoors for Cannabis

There are organic cannabis growing styles that differ, using a liquid bottle-fed regiment requires more vermiculite than soil for the best results, in my experience. The following formula is an organic style that also leans heavily towards all natural growing, which is bottle-free. You’ll be blown away at the quality, keep it in your head that larger yields are more about what’s not in your cannabis. Let me run down my suggested methodology. You will need a water source between 50 and 80 PPM and chlorine/chloramine free. Here’s the list of stuff you need…

List of Things You Need

  • Good bagged soil mix (1), like Fox Farm’s Ocean Forest, or any of G&B’s Potting Soils. A bag of Ocean Forest is 1.5 cubic feet (9 gallons) of soil. 1 cubic foot equals 6 gallons.
  • Good bagged earthworm castings (1) – you will need at least 1 cubic foot of this.
  • A bottle of Big Bloom (1) by Fox Farm, about a quart – DO NOT get Tiger Bloom!
  • A bottle of Alaska brand Liquid Fish Fertilizer (1), quart, 5-1-1 NPK.
  • Air-pump, air-line, an air-stone, and a 1-gallon pitcher (1 of each).
  • Alfalfa Meal, Langbeinite, Crab Meal, and DE (Diatomaceous Earth, food or agricultural grades only). You can buy these a few pounds at a time or in larger quantities.
  • A TDS meter (1 or 2) – I like getting two less expensive meters and just checking them off each other if I think something is wonky.
  • Growing containers with side aeration/drainage holes, so that even if the catch tray is full of runoff water all the drainage holes are not underwater. Self-Watering style containers are one example of a good design you can use.

Regarding the List Above

You likely already have the TDS meter(s), and you can just customize existing growing containers by drilling holes up on the sides, just high enough to be out of the water when the catch tray is full of runoff water. Big Bloom liquid organic fertilizer along with the liquid fish, can be found at almost any grow-shop, and many nurseries. Also, everything is available online as well, and you could get it all at Amazon if you wanted to. Not a big huge investment here, and all this stuff will last you for a long time.

First Time Organic Grow Methodologies

Rather than give you static formulas here, I am going to elect to address this dynamic based upon PPM value. Your different water sources, and water compositions will vary, so keeping consistent on your PPM levels will be all you need do. If your only water source choice is “hard” groundwater (PPM too high), you will need to either dilute it with super-low PPM water, rain, distilled, etc., or use a reverse osmosis filter. It is easy to bring any low PPM water up to about 60 PPM simply by bubbling 1/8th teaspoon dolomite lime per gallon of water, for 24 hours. Like you would make a tea.


  • Using groundwater as your base water here is all good. It needs to be chlorine free, let’s use a good base water PPM level here and say 45 to 60 PPM.
  • To this water, every time you water, you will add very small amounts of Big Bloom and Fish Fertilizer. Your additions here should be uber small, and 1-part Fish to 4-parts Big Bloom. This will add PPM value to your water, keep it below 70 PPM. Just drops of each should be used at first per gallon to get your working formulas mapped out to reach your desired PPM value.
  • Add about ¼ oz. of Langbeinite water per gallon of water every time—see below!
  • Per 1.5 cubic feet of bagged soil, add 1 cubic foot of earthworm castings, everything should be somewhat moist, not wet. Add ¾ cup DE, ½ cup crab meal, 1 cup alfalfa meal. Do this on a tarp and let it sit for 24 hours in the open before using. Never compact your soil in containers, ever, and never use wet soil mix when transplanting, always somewhat moist only.

Langbeinite Water for Primo Organic Cannabis

Break out your gallon pitcher, and the air-pump, -line, -stone, and set it up like you would to bubble an organic tea. Simply bubble 1/8th teaspoon of Langbeinite per gallon of water, for about 24 hours. You will end up with a reading of 350 to 450 PPM for your Langbeinite Water. Pour the water off the top, avoiding pouring any sediment, into a 1-gallon plastic and labeled container. Seal it up, and it will keep fine for at least months and months.

Rev’s Tip

Langbeinite is a wicked potent source for magnesium (Mg), sulfur (S), and potassium (K). Just FYI. It must be used with great restraint, a little too much is deadly fast.

Langbeinite Frozen Cubes and Liquid Dilutions
Langbeinite Frozen Cubes and Liquid Dilutions

In the photo above you can see two storage methods I use for this high PPM water. I use 1 oz. of this water per 5 gallons of water I use on my plants every time I water. I freeze some up into ice cubes as these are basically 1 oz. worth. But keeping it in liquid form works all good, just use a ¼ teaspoon per gallon of water, and keep a watch on your overall PPM value. When all is said and done your designer water should be below or maybe at, 80 PPM. Just consistently use it always, until about 2 weeks before harvest, at that point go back to only using your 45 to 60 PPM base water, with no “designer” additions.

See Also

Top Dressing Style

You can always top dress, and using alfalfa meal and crab meal is awesome. Basic rules of thumb are, use about 1 teaspoon of each of these, per application, per gallon size of your containers. Apply top dressings right AFTER watering, allowing them to hyper-process up top for a while. About once per 10 days regarding how often to top dress. And never top dress after the 25 days from harvest date. Boom!

This Fat and Saucy C99 Bud Will Smoke as Delicious as She Looks
This Fat and Saucy C99 Bud Will Smoke as Delicious as She Looks

To Sum Up This Organic Cannabis Article

You are running a consistent “designer” water always, every time you water, until your plants closely approach harvest time. That water should not exceed 80 PPM, or so. Your base water, closer to 45 to 60 PPM, should be used for the last 10 to 15 days, to effectively “fade” all the nutrients out of your buds. For the most elegant smoking qualities. Be consistent and let the microlife do all the work for you.

If your groundwater sucks due to things like high sulfur, Iron, etc., you should just go with reverse osmosis (R/O) filtration. And then, bubble 1/8th teaspoon of dolomite lime per gallon of R/O water for 24 hours and it will end up about 60 PPM. Just use this as your base water.

Get ready to experience some crazy good weeds—wink. Use PPM values to guide your hand when dialing things in, not static formulas.

Check out another organic growing style, well, actually a totally all natural TLO style, but still, here at SKUNK: Micro-Pond Growing with Rev. For a real connoisseurs’ treat, check out some C99 (Cinderella 99) over at Kingdom Organic Seeds Online.

Don’t take mistakes as defeat, humans make mistakes, just correct your course accordingly and forge onward, you won’t be sorry. L8r G8rs…

  • REvski ????