I'm The Rev, and I have been with SKUNK for…
Greetings and salutations my green SKUNK friends. Today we are going to have a pretty heady look at some subtle details of all natural growing, and as any kickass all-natural grower knows, the devil is in the details. First, I’m going to share a killer tea recipe with you, then tell you about the whole particle dance. Buckle up and spark ‘em if you got ‘em, let’s roll…
Let’s Look at a Killer Tea Recipe
I make any of my teas these days very mellow, and very rarely; and truth be told, I don’t really need to use any teas these days usually because I just use my liquid worm leachate (worm juice) that I gather from my home worm farm—it’s like an instant tea. I know most of you don’t have a home worm farm—but seriously, I recommend them highly—so using some well-timed teas does the trick if you are worm-farm-less. Let me first give you a killer tea recipe here first that you can try out, using the particle theory methodology I will tell you about below. Now, to be clear, this isn’t so much a theory as it is a sound practice, heh heh. I just thought the whole “particle theory” thing sounded cool as a title; and it is all about the particles. 😊
I like to brew teas in my garden spaces because the ambient temperatures are much warmer and so conducive to rapid/large microlife population booms. However, you should always shield your brewing teas from light if possible.
A GREAT ALL PURPOSE TEA FOR USE UP UNTIL THE 3RD WEEK OF FLOWERING
I’m going to give you ratios for making a 2-gallon tea here. The way I do this is I brew/bubble the tea in a single gallon container, and just before using the tea I dilute it with an additional gallon of good water. You could also bubble it in 2 gallons of good water to start with; either way you’re all good.
When I use the measurement, “coke spoon” I am referring to about 1/16th of a teaspoon. Let’s begin…
- 1/8th teaspoon of food-grade DE (Diatomaceous Earth) – I highly recommend using this, and its constituents are: Ca and Si. Both of these elements are critical for highest quality and large yields.
- 1/8th teaspoon of powdered Dolomite Lime … or … ¼ teaspoon of prilled or pelletized fast acting Dolomite Lime – This is a true buffering agent here, use only Dolomite Lime. It keeps the tea extremely bacteria-friendly visa vi pH buffering to around 7.0 pH. Cannabis thrives best in a bacterial dominant soil, and facts back this up here, and I fully agree, and especially so in container growing.
- ½ teaspoon of raw bee pollen (optional) – I highly recommend this addition, and while bee pollen varies from locale to locale, regarding nutrient ratios wise, it always has magical organic matter and plenty of good things. Health food stores sometimes sell this raw by weight so you can just buy like 2 ounces at a time; store in air-tight and light-tight containers, cool below 68 degrees preferably.
- ½ teaspoon dry all-purpose nutrient like dried chicken guano, or something like Espoma or Down to Earth brands of All-Natural dry fertilizers – Espoma is my source for dried and pelletized chicken guano and I highly recommend this for the tea, as well as when any kickass all-purpose natural fertilizer is called for; including for “spikes” in TLO growing.
- ½ coke spoon of dried kelp/seaweed extract … or … 1 teaspoon of Kelp Meal – Watch out using kelp extract and do not overdo it. This product really bumps up the PPM value of the tea and needs to be used in miniscule ratios.
- ¼ teaspoon Bone Meal … or … ¼ teaspoon of liquid Big Bloom by Fox Farm brand – I recommend the bone meal here but the Big Bloom also works well.
- ½ coke spoon Epsom Salts – Use with caution and do not overdo. This product should be food grade or agricultural grade only; its constituents are Mg and S.
- 1 drop molasses – A tad of N, decent K, and decent Mg in molasses. DO NOT use more than a drop; you don’t need it. Molasses provides (fast-food/carbs/sugars) to give your microlife populations a good initial booster shot to grow fast.
You just bubble this for at least 24 hours, in temperatures that are at least 68 degrees F. and up to 80 – 90 degrees is all good too; and even up to three days is normally all good bubbling time as well, so no real worries there; hell man, two weeks bubbling would likely be all fine. I like bubbling it for at least a couple of days, myself. Let everything free-float in this tea, no tea-bags or anything of that nature. If you are using this as a mostly vegetative state tea, simply replace the liquid Big Bloom with Alaska brand liquid fish fertilizer (5-1-1 NPK) in the same ratio. As I said above, I would always opt first for the Bone Meal here, whether it was for vegetative or pre-flowering (up until 3 weeks into flowering).
I found it to work very well when cold ambient temps are a problem, I would add a small 100-watt aquarium heater to my tea brewer; however, I would use a glass or metal container to brew my tea in. The heater, if it became dislodged from the side of a plastic container could foreseeably melt through a plastic container, and start a fire! So take heed. I would set this heater for 72 – 75 degrees.
This is a very subtle and deceptively powerful move here with your teas. When you think about it, it’s all really all about the particles—and particle size. What you want to do here is stir up your tea really well after “brewing” it, use a rubber spatula to skim any “bio-slime” stuck to the sides of the tea brewing container so it can also be stirred in as well. Allow it to settle for about 15 or 20 seconds and immediately pour off the top, leaving any heavier “bio-sludge” in larger particle size states in the bottom of the tea brewer container. As you apply the tea, make sure you keep it stirred up between plants—wait until you see just how insanely powerful this little move is here. All those particles that remain suspended are super-food with added length of effects due to the particle sizes being larger. So just don’t let your tea (suspended particles) settle too much before pouring off the top for use, is the bottom line here—you savvy?
These teas may or may not foam up after 24 hours, don’t sweat that at all, it’s all good either way; as long as you have not upped the additions’ ratios. I also want to tell you that it is fine to bubble this for two days (48 hrs.), or three days; I recommend 48 hrs. (two days) at least. This makes for a greater volume of suspended particles.
My very best advice here is to resist the urge to add larger amounts of things to your tea, use these very small ratios I have given you in the recipe, and your plants will thank you bigtime. You need to be thinking from a bacterium perspective and not a human size perspective—I call this “dimension walking” as it is an absolute paradigm shift in perspective. That saying of: “Less is More” never rang truer. As long as your soil is rich this will rock and roll. If your soil is weaker, you could use this tea once per week or every other watering even, but not more often than that.
If you have a healthy freshwater aquarium, adding in about 2 ounces of this aquarium water—or pond water—per 2-gallons of tea is an awesome move. You can source all the rest of the tea additions online at Amazon for example, or at your local nursery. DO NOT use the DE used in pool filtration here, it is very bad! Also, always use dechlorinated water that is 20-80 PPM (or so) as your base water, and feel free to use this tea as often as needed, and I wouldn’t use it closer than 10 days apart from application to application in rich custom built living soil. Happy Trails my esteemed homeskillets … Until next time, L8r G8rs!
I'm The Rev, and I have been with SKUNK for about a decade now. I hail from Southern California, spent mucho time in Northern California, and now reside in Southern Oregon; always coastal. I am an all natural style cannabis grower and I have written a couple books on the subject - check out True Living Organics 2nd Edition on Amazon - I have been growing for over 45 years, and I have been breeding cannabis for over 30 years. Check out kingdomorganicseeds.com to see some exotic selections. Growing connoisseur cannabis is what I teach mostly, growing it in living soil without using liquid organic nutrients to feed the plant. I am also a highly skilled synthetics grower, hydroponics, aeroponics, DWC/SWC/NFT, Ebb and Flow, and soilless, but I cringe when smoking synthetic grown herbs, so for the last 15 years or so I preach the artisan style of all natural growing, specializing in container growing. Cheers and welcome aboard.