I'm The Rev, and I have been with SKUNK for…
Hey, you sexy mofos! I hope all is well in your world. Check out the video for a little Rev preamble. In the article below, Today, 4 tips for ya; and these are off the beaten path type tips for ya. This info should light you up with some additional options, maybe even solve a problem for ya … I love it when that happens.
Science is good, and true, however, bullshit masquerading as science is rampant. When the scientist(s) have a vested interest in the results of the scientific conclusions they are producing, that’s all kinds of fucked up. Big fertilizer corporations have basically taught everyone how to grow plants, using liquid fertilizers—surprise! I’m here to tell you, there’s a better way. Grab a copy of my latest book: True Living Organics 2nd Edition on Amazon baybee, open your mind and go full pull Supernatural Mother Nature style in containers. Now, on with the show…
#1: Make Your Air Intake Passive for Indoor Home Grows
If you are just growing in your house, or under similar circumstances, you will of course need an exhaust fan pulling air out of your grow-room, to move all the humid air from your grow to outside your house. Now, I have seen a lot of peeps who also use active intake venting from outside, driven by fans pulling in fresh outside air—filtered is a must! This usually results in humidity ranges outside (higher normally) of a good range for your plants, especially during lights out. Also, mold spores are very-very small, and so are Russet Mites; viruses too. Not a great idea powering outside air into your gardens, in my books.
I prefer just sucking the fresh air into my grow-rooms passively, from the house itself. The air is usually dry, CO2 is present from the peeps and animals breathing in the house, virtually zero risk of sucking in some unwanted parasitic micro-villain. If your house guests are limited, or if they don’t care if your house smells like killer cannabis flowers, you can actually reroute your venting, so you actually suck the air out of your grow-rooms and into your house; to benefit from the “free” heat. When you are doing it this way, simply use a passive intake (filtered always when from outdoors) from outside. When you must suck grow-room air from outside, do it passively, without fans pushing it in; much lower parasite and mold risk.
#2: Sudden Powdery Mildew (PM) Syndrome – 2 Proactive Moves
This, my esteemed homeskillets, is as simple as … your air movement. Of course, you need air exchange as well, but the air around your plants should always be in motion 24/7. I have noticed several times in my growing life, when a circulation fan would fail, and go unnoticed for a couple of days, Powdery Mildew (PM) would almost always rear its ugly head. It seems strongly to me that PM almost requires very poor air movement, to get a foothold on your plants.
Another great proactive countermeasure against PM, is to make sure and give your leaves a good rinsing off with water at least a couple times a month. This will keep their breathing ports (stomata) clear of micro particles, that can clog them up (dust etc.) and invite a mold attack. You are simply emulating rain; spray them until water drips off the leaves. Always do this about an hour or two after lights come on; when you do it. If you handle these two things, you very likely won’t be seeing any surprise PM; unless you bring it in with infected clones.
#3: Wood Ash as a Lime Replacement
Wood ash is one of those things that can work fantastic for you in an outdoor garden, or it could totally suck for you. The pH, and percentage of organic matter regarding your soil constituents, are key factors that decide the outcome of that case. In containers, especially using custom soil mixes, there is a SUPER HIGH ratio of organic matter compared to almost any natural soil on earth. Amending these mixes with dry all-natural meals, guanos/manure, and some minerals, works best if you use a buffer amendment like Dolomite Lime, for example. This keeps everything very bacteria friendly. Just how cannabis loves it.
You could use wood ash in place of dolomite lime when amending your soil, and use it in the same ratios as you would dolomite lime, plus 25% or so. So, if you normally use 1 cup of dolomite lime, you would use 1 ¼ cup of wood ashes. Wood ashes add a lot of great stuff and can buffer your soil amendments well. It contains stuff like P, a lot of K, and Ca (calcium carbonate), among others. The only thing you want to take into account is, when dropping the Dolomite Lime, it will mean you are shy a previous Mg source. Wood ash is amazeballs for container soil; and in active compost piles as well, just don’t overdo it.
#4: Powerful Synergistic Container Layering Blends
SIMPLE TOP-DRESSING BLEND:
- 1-part crab meal
- 1-part bone meal (fishbone meal is awesome)
- 1-part granular chicken or bat/bird guano (I HIGHLY recommend Espoma brand Granular Chicken Manure)
I use this custom blend above, as a top dressing just under the bark mulch layer when transplanting into my flowering or vegging containers, I then top dress with it again, 3 weeks into flowering, just on top, and then add a little more mulch. Done deal.
On the bottom (floor) of your containers, vegging containers or flowering containers, it is a badass trick to sprinkle some dry nutrients down before adding any soil. This is a blend (below) I like to use when transplanting into flowering or vegging containers, on the containers’ floor.
SIMPLE BOTTOM LAYER BLEND:
- 2-parts crab meal
- 2-parts granular chicken (as above)
- 1-part blood meal
- 1-part bone meal
These two custom blends are like the PBJ of container layering, and they really help crank out some fat buds. Don’t go too heavy with these, in a 3- or 4-gallon container I would use about a tablespoon of each of those custom blends listed above per container. In a 5 to 7-gallon pot, more like a heaping tablespoon of the blends. So, approx. 1 ¼ tablespoon of each blend, per container. Store these blends in an airtight container and they’ll be good forever, almost.
“If your soil isn’t living it isn’t soil, it’s dirt.”
Afterword with Rev
Try and ween yourself off of using liquid nutrients of any kind if you are using living soil. Dial in your water, and your soil, and let Mother Nature do the “driving” for ya. She’s amazing at it! The NEED to FEED your plants with liquid nutrients or teas is a hard urge to resist. In containers using all-natural methods, you are basically “shooting yourself in the foot” anytime you pour high PPM and pH altering liquid fertilizers into those containers. Fertilizer corporations are very good at making you think that is standard practice.
Cheers and Happy December Earthlings. Until next week, Rev out.
- REvski 😊
I'm The Rev, and I have been with SKUNK for about a decade now. I hail from Southern California, spent mucho time in Northern California, and now reside in Southern Oregon; always coastal. I am an all natural style cannabis grower and I have written a couple books on the subject - check out True Living Organics 2nd Edition on Amazon - I have been growing for over 45 years, and I have been breeding cannabis for over 30 years. Check out kingdomorganicseeds.com to see some exotic selections. Growing connoisseur cannabis is what I teach mostly, growing it in living soil without using liquid organic nutrients to feed the plant. I am also a highly skilled synthetics grower, hydroponics, aeroponics, DWC/SWC/NFT, Ebb and Flow, and soilless, but I cringe when smoking synthetic grown herbs, so for the last 15 years or so I preach the artisan style of all natural growing, specializing in container growing. Cheers and welcome aboard.